Places You Must Visit
If you want to spend your evening doing bars, head for Tkalčićeva Street, extending parallelly to Kaptol. Eighteenth century ex-watermills and modern bars live in a happy coexistence here. Our recommendations are venues called Cica, Melin and Funk.
Check why Zagrebians like to drink their coffee in Cvjetni trg, a place particularly attended on Saturday during midday hours, the time of day popularly called špica, „the peak“. Packed with cafés lining up their summer terraces, as well as with clothes shops, the square got its name (the words in Croatian mean „Flowers Square“!) after once upon a time numerous flower stalls.
USPINJAČA / THE FUNICULAR
The Upper Town funicular is the oldest public transport vehicle in Zagreb, beating the horse drawn tram by a year. It was open in 1890. Still connecting the main shopping and tram street, the Ilica, with the Upper Town.
THE UPPER TOWN
The heart of the current Gornji grad – Medveščak quarter, at the same time the bosom of the city itself, began its millennium-long development atop two hills. It straddles a stream called Medveščak, which originates at the foot of the Medvednica mountain and flows towards the Sava river, following the direction of Medvedgradska and Tkalčićeva streets. On the eastern hill the bishops' see Kaptol (Capitol!) evolved, whereas the western one saw the rise of the mediaeval market town of Gradec – Grič. You shouldn't miss a walk in the Upper Town streets, either you climb the slope taking Mesnička street or overcome it in the funicular.
THE MEDVEDNICA MOUNTAIN
The Medvednica nature reserve has been nicknamed „the lungs of Zagreb“. Zagrebians like to spend sunny weekends hiking to the summit – Sljeme. You can reach the peak either on foot or by bus (www.zet.hr), and it's there that you can rent ski equipment. In any of the chalets one shouldn't go without a grah (a thick bean soup) or at least a strudel. Once you're on the mountain, you might want to go and see the Medvedgrad mediaeval fort.
The central Zagreb cemetery is not only the last resting place of more than 300 000 souls, but a kind of an open-air museum, too: its architecture and layout are remarkable. You can take a number 106 bus, leaving from the bus terminus behind the cathedral and taking you up to Mirogoj. Zagrebians visit Mirogoj in great numbers on November 1st, on All Saints Day.
THE CROATIAN NATIONAL THEATRE
Go to see the Croatian National Theatre Neo-Baroque building in Marshal Tito Square. The building was completed in 1895 and has seating capacity for 750 spectators.
The Cathedral is the largest sacral building and the highest one in general in Croatia. It was completed in 1217 and renovated several times afterwards. The bell towers measure 105 m in height. The church sits more than 5000 people. It's an example of the Neo-Gothic style in architecture.
Look around Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square, forming a part of the so-called Green or Lenuzzi Horseshoe, made up of seven city squares. In the middle of the park there's a music pavilion and in the southern part of it there are busts representing important figures of Croatian history.
A sports and leisure centre was erected on the shores of the Jarun lake on the occasion of the 1987 Summer Universiade. During the day it's a perfect place for sports enthusiasts, and in the night it fills with the young clubbing in Jarun discotheques.
This place summons up a feeling of nostalgia amongst locals because it used to be the favourite haunt of cinephiles of all generations. After Kinoteka closed its doors, the cafe was renamed ExKinoteka and has kept the tradition of the former cinema alive. The cafe with its terrace sits behind St Blaise Church, which presents some interesting architectural features, and in summer enjoys the shadow the bell-tower casts upon the semi-enclosed courtyard. A real local coffeehouse with a charming artistic feel, where you can have a good cup of coffee, a squeezed orange juice or a glass of gemišt, a favourite local drink (where wine and sparkling water go halves). On Friday Brada, the boss, and his band „Three Roses” will play old rock songs for you. Smoking permitted.
In Bardot Bistro, except breakfast and high-end dishes, in the evening you can treat your friends and yourself to a bottle from their exquisite wine selection, served in glasses as well, with jazz and funky sounds in the background. Open daily from 7 AM till midnight; smoking permitted. In summer months, don't miss their terrace.
Artists' favourite spot in Zagreb. It has an extraordinary, warm atmosphere characteristic of old Zagreb coffee shops. Not so chic a place, as far as its interior design, but a charming terrace, polite waiters and good music will make you visit Sedmica over again. Smoking permitted – there's an open terrace; open till midnight.
Frankopanska 8 – 10
A coffee shop in the anteroom of the Gavella theatre will welcome you in the late-night hours to offer you one for the road. After all others close, this is the place the locals prefer to converge to, if clubbing isn't their pick on that night. Don't expect more than a local bar charm. Serving drinks while the waiter is willing to serve. Smoking permitted, no terrace on the outside.
CYBER FUNK CAFE
If you pine for fresh smoothies and tasty infusions and want to surf the internet for free alongside, then the Cyber Funk Cafe is the place for you. On an out-of-sight outdoor terrace you will be enjoying a cup of fresh juice in the company of students of nearby art academies.
Dežmanova ulica 9
A cult coffee shop in Zagreb, reopened in 2009. Now it welcomes you on an outdoor terrace in summer, while in winter you're invited to step into a soothing interior, featuring a gallery as well. Smoking is not permitted; open 8 AM – 10 PM on work days, 8 AM – 3 PM Sat, 8 AM – 2 PM Sun.
PALAINOVKA COFFEE HOUSE
Ilirski trg 1
Jedna od najpoznatijih starozagrebačkih kavana preuređena je u novom ruhu i smjestila se na idiličnom Gornjem gradu.
LAV CAFFE GALERIJA
KAVA & KNJIGE
CAFE U DVORIŠTU
Jurja Žerjavića 7/2
BACCHUS JAZZ BAR
Trg kralja Tomislava 16
Breakfast in Zagreb
Britanski trg bb
Very close to Camera Felice, in the charming Belle Epoque Britanski trg, nicknamed Mali plac („The small square“) by locals, you'll find a bar called Kava tava. Their specialty is traditional breakfast, or, as the oldies in Zagreb say, fruštuk. It consists of an omelette, squeezed orange juice and coffee, along with an assortment of toasted rolls and crȇpes. In the evening hours they'll surprise you with unexpected jazz performances. Open 7 AM – 1 AM daily. Bear in mind it's an open-air joint – in the evenings you might want to bundle up!
Being the first theme bar in Zagreb, this venue embraces a library with books spanning the fields of architecture, design, arts and photography, called Upi 2m books. Recently their offer has been enlarged with a traditional breakfast consisting of omelette served with bacon, fresh viennoiserie and jam, squeezed orange juice and coffee. One step away you'll find a French style gastropub Bardot Bistro, where you can grab a bite in the evenings, while listening to the jazz and funky tunes the place resounds with, coming from Kota. Open daily from 7 AM to midnight; smoking permitted. An open terrace in summers.
Lunch & Dinner in Zagreb
Kranjčevićeva 16 a
PIVOVARA I PIVNICA MEDVEDGRAD
KAVANA – RESTAURANT BOBAN
One of the oldest fancy pastry bakeries in Zagreb, founded in 1936. At the same place even today. You have to taste their cheese and chocolate cakes, French pastry made without margarine, additives or artificial colouring and, last but not least, their imaginative ice cream flavours.
Zagreb Tourist Board
On your way to Britanski trg, walking down the main shopping street, rent a unique Mondo bicycle. The simple, old school design worked out by the charming Anja and her boss Mislav will inspire you. A whole day ride will cost only 100 Kuna.
Mail Bus Station Zagreb
Zagrebački electric tram – ZET
Museums & Galleries in Zagreb
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
Avenija Dubrovnik 17
The Museum of Contemporary Art possesses a large collection (about 5000 works of art) displayed in a special, new showcase building. It also features the Gorgona cinema. Open 11 AM – 6 PM Tue – Sun, till 8 PM Sat, closed Mon.
Prilaz baruna Filipovića 53
The Lauba is „home to people and art“, a place where you'll find a unique collection of contemporary arts. There's also a café-meets-bistro on the premises where you can grab a bite while taking a break from examining the exhibits. Check out the current events.
MUSEUM OF BROKEN RELATIONSHIPS
Ćirilometodska 2, Gornji grad
Being the only one of its kind, this unmatched museum collects and displays personal items left after breaches of intimate relationships. You, too, can overcome your break by a donation to the Museum. Open 9 AM – 10.30 PM in summer, till 9 PM in winter.
The Greta gallery is a small salon close to Britanski trg. Here, every Monday sees a fresh programme of either presentations or exhibitions starting.
We recommend cinemas located in the centre of the city which screen art films and classics. All features are shown in the original language, but with subtitles.
Cultural Events & Film Festivals in Zagreb
Zagreb Film Festival
Human Rights Film Festival
Jewish Film Festival
Festival eksperimentalnog filma – 25 FPS
Subversive Film Festival
Festival Svjetskog kazališta
Tjedan suvremenog plesa
Ljeto na Štrosu
Međunarodni festival ulične umjetnosti – C’est is d’Best
Traditional Markets in Zagrebu
BRITANSKI TRG ili MALI PLAC
Britanski trg Market is a most liked open-air neighbourhood market, nicknamed Mali plac by locals. During the week the trg hosts sellers of locally produced fruit and vegetables, on Saturday half of the market welcomes stalls with trash and treasure on sale, while on Sunday the whole square turns into antiques and collectors' fair. On a weekday you have to come here and buy fresh cottage cheese and cream (a quintessential traditional Croatian food!) from a colourful stallkeeper, whereas at a weekend you can snugly have your coffee after you've bought yourself a collectible. Opening hours: 7 AM – 5 PM on work days, till 2 PM Sat, till 1 PM Sun.
Introduced in 1930, it is the largest traditional market in Zagreb, to be accessed directly from the main square (Trg bana Jelačića). There's an upper, open-air part, where one buys fruit, vegetables and seafood, and a lower, inner part, where meat and dairy products and the like are on sale. Opening hours: 7 AM – 3 PM on work days, till 2 PM Sat, till 1 PM Sun. If you want to feel how it's like to throng the old market with locals, be there on a Saturday.
Antiques & Collectors' Fairs
If you're strolling in the vicinity of the Camera Felice, be sure to pay a visit to the Britanski trg antiques and collectors' fair. Every Sunday (and later in the day on Saturday, too) many sellers of antiques and collectibles gather there. The range spans books, paintings, jewellery through furniture.
You can reach the largest and most visited flea market in Croatia if you get to the Sava river at its eastern bend and follow it downstream, eastwards. It's a pleasant stroll on a levy along the river. The market sits on an interesting position, not far away from the Jakuševac landfill. Although it 's pretty far from the Camera Felice, a visit to Zagreb isn't complete if you don't go there. Hrelić represents a facet of Zagreb that is different from the one you take in while walking the city centre and the fashionable Cvjetni trg („Flowers square“). At Hrelić you can buy pretty much everything – from books at 5 Kuna or Kinder Surprise figurines to totally useful things as bicycles or clothes. Ending your visit to the flea market treat yourself to a portion of tasty greasy ćevapi from one of the ćevapi stalls at the entrance to Hrelić.
Shops & Markets
ZLATICAYou can buy groceries every day in the closest little shop called Zlatica (it's located in the avenue, or Prilaz Gjure Deželića). They are open from 7 AM till 9 PM, except on Sundays, when they work till 1 PM.
You don't have to go a long way to go organic! Very close to us you will find the first organic foods supermarket in Croatia, called GARDEN. Location: Prilaz Gjure Deželića 87, open Mon – Sat 8 AM – 8 PM.
Konzum supermarket, at Britanski trg 12, is a practical place to buy bigger supplies of groceries. Open Mon – Sat 7 AM – 9 PM, Sun 8 AM – 3 PM.